Pilgrimage In Peru
by Gayle Lawrence
There are moments when a sudden, unexpected connection is made somewhere in the world, powerful and undeniable. When the energy is exactly right, it doesn’t matter where you are. Things just happen as they should.
Paula McDonald, "A Waltz at the End of the Earth".
The engine strained in low gear as the bus climbed the steep twisting dirt road up the mountain. Gazing out the window I could feel the presence of the Apus, the mountain spirits, looking down on me. Below was a spectacular view of the Urubamba River (the Willkamayu or sacred river) winding its way between the majestic peaks of the Andes. The mountains stood before me like living beings, the aware intelligence I felt left me humbled.
As on previous visits, as we neared the top I could feel emotion begin to swell in my chest. Rounding the last curve, my breath caught with my first glimpse of this place that beckons me to keep returning. My eyes filled with tears, my sense of urgency and anticipation relaxed, once again I felt like I had come home. This place, the Lost City of the Incas, the Crystal City in the clouds, Machu Picchu, Peru, calls to me like an absentee friend when we are apart. Now it was time once again, for us to be together.
Machu Picchu’s aura is like a fairy-tale place, enchanted, magical; shrouded in mystery, remote, alone, and breathtakingly beautiful. Perched high on a mountaintop in the Andes, it is the Tibet of the Americas. This lofty city, sitting at an elevation of 9,000 ft. eluded discovery until the Yale University archeologist, Hiram Bingham, revealed it to the world after he "stumbled" upon it in 1911. Mr. Bingham’s personal journals tell of his own emotion and astonished disbelief with his first glimpse of this majestic city of stone.
Destruction and looting of the major Incan sacred sites were a result of the Spanish conquest of the prosperous Inca civilization in 1532; but they never found Machu Picchu. Even though they searched for the most sacred spiritual center of the Incas, it’s isolation and difficult mountainous accessibility spared Machu Picchu from ravage and dishonor. Peru is often referred to as the most powerful feminine energy vortex on the planet. Perhaps the spirits of the ancient ones hid Machu Picchu away like a blessed virgin. Holding her in silence like a mysterious secret, keeping her protected, unblemished, holy. So that modern day pilgrims like myself would have the opportunity to experience the spell of her innocent beauty and the transformative power of a place so pure.
For those who are seekers, on a path of personal and spiritual growth, Peru offers a pilgrimage journey already planned for you by the land itself. There is an unavoidable route, seemingly designed by the Apus of the Andes, that you must take if your final destination is Machu Picchu. This naturally designed overland journey takes you symbolically from an "outer to an inner" focus as you progress toward the final destination, Machu Picchu.
My journey begins at an elevation of 11, 200 feet in Cuzco, the ancient Incan capital. Having just come from my everyday job, home, obligations and stress I begin my pilgrimage still feeling strongly connected to my "outer life". An as archetype, beginning this journey of self-discovery at such a high elevation symbolizes my "high superior attitude", my ego, the aloofness of looking "down" on others. Being very focused outside myself.
In Cuzco I wander down cobblestone streets, flanked by original Inca walls overlaid with Spanish architecture. Crossing the plaza to the market, I pass street vendors selling cocoa leaves. Cocoa tea is popular with tourists as an aid against altitude sickness. Children in traditional Inca dress leading llamas offer to pose for a photo in exchange for a few sols, Peruvian money. I am in the midst of the material world or "outer life" of these gentle Quecha people. It mirrors my own outer focus, yet nudges me to open to a much softer, gentler attitude.
Eventually I find myself at the Korikancha, meaning enclosure of gold, in which the Temple of the Sun was located. This sacred space is represented by exquisite stonework unsurpassed anywhere in the world. I am astounded by stone walls fitted together so precisely, without the use of any mortar, that the smallest knife blade cannot be inserted between them. Within the Korichancha are smaller temples, the Temple of the Rainbow, Temple of the Moon, and Temple of Lightening. As I place my hands on these ancient walls and feel a tingling energy emanate from them, the first shift from "outer to inner" begins to happen.
On the outskirts of Cuzco I visit the huge ceremonial center of Sacsaywaman. Making an offering of 3 cocoa leaves, representing love, work, and wisdom to the Pachamama, the Mother Earth, I ask for her blessing and guidance on my pilgrimage journey. A small very dark cave invites me into the womb of Pachamama. Feeling my way along the wall I must begin to trust that I will be guided to an opening, an exit from the darkness, self-enlightenment. At the end of this cave tunnel I emerge into the sunlight, symbolically as a new born babe, more open to the wisdom that the mother will offer. An inner cleansing process has been triggered.
The Pachamama energy is a prevalent feminine force but the wise Inca’s recognized the need to balance the male and female aspects. The waters of Tambo Machay, two ever-flowing aqueducts of pure clear water join into one; representing this balance. I allow the energy of the water to flow over my hands, then as I touch my forehead and lips with wet fingertips I focus on bringing my own male and female aspects into harmony. Inner discord will surely block the flow of wisdom waiting for me on the remainder of my journey.
Traveling overland I descend to the Sacred Valley of the Incas, just as I am descending deeper within myself. It is a twisting and turning roadway, up and down hills, sometimes offering spectacular vistas and then with a change of direction I find my view blocked, unable to see what is around the next bend. Could this be a metaphor for my life, a series of emotional peaks and valleys? Often I resist the valleys of my experience finding them undesirable; I fight desperately to claw my way out as quickly as possible. The Sacred Valley, so called by the Incas because it is so fertile, rich with crops, it is a valley of sustenance for the people. This reminds me how "rich with revelation" my own emotional valleys can be if I relax and enjoy the view.
At the site of Ollantaytambo, in the Sacred Valley, I climb to the top of an ascending trail of stone steps. Before me are 3 enormous pink granite stones weighing tons. Carvings of large Puma’s represent the physical plane where we exist in a physical body. Huge flat sacred rock altars, each one specific to certain areas of the body, are said to energetically heal. I am guided to a healing stone for my spine and nervous system, as I lay there I feel a vibration run through me and I move effortlessly into a meditative state for a short time. Climbing off the rock I feel different, calmer, my back does not bother me for the rest of my journey and I literally...sleep like a rock.
Early the next morning, feeling physically restored and spiritually more in tune, I board the train at Ollantaytambo station to continue my descent to Machu Picchu at 9000 ft. where my final rite of passage from an "outer to inner" focus will occur. Geographically this journey takes me to lower elevations; symbolically Machu Picchu will take me to deeper "inner" realms of awareness and transformation.
As the train snakes it’s way toward the Lost City running a parallel course next to the Urubumba River, I am lost in the beauty of the Andean scenery. Majestic snow capped peaks tower over me, the Apus watch as the train moves along the tracks taking me into the edge of the tropical rain forest. The high Andean glacier called Veronica is easily visible, the local villagers claim she watches over and protects the Sacred Valley. I feel the flowing water of the river representing my consciousness carrying me forward, deeper into the beauty and mystery of my own being. Huge boulders in the river remind me of obstacles in my life that appear to block my path. But the water easily glides over or around them, this river of awareness never stops moving forward. I ponder on this.
An hour and a half later I arrive at the small town of Aguas Calientes where I board the bus for a 25 minute ride up the side of the mountain to Machu Picchu. This is a ride filled with excitement, anticipation, exquisite views and deep emotion. Upon arrival I dash off the bus, the ruins are calling me and within moments I am in the midst of this breathtaking city once again.
Machu Picchu’s allure is its on-going mystery, which fills your head with question after question but yet reveals very few answers. Could it be that the powerful energetic quality that you can literally feel here is the fact that Machu Picchu is a stone city made of white granite the composition of which is 40% quartz? In essence you are sitting on top of a giant powerful crystal and you can feel this energetic vibration emanate from the natural structures all around you. Even though my days are filled with walking and climbing the on-going stone steps and terraces that make up this place, I do not seem to tire as I most certainly would in other settings. I seem to be continually rejuvenated by this source of crystal energy and information stored in the stone surrounding me.
Peace and serenity wash over me as I stroll through maze like stone passageways and climb inviting stone staircases leading me to well kept secret rooms. Favorite places call to me immediately. The Intiwatana or hitching post of the sun, the highest point in Machu Picchu and my personal power spot beckons to me first. After a short meditation I continue to explore, spending time in the Temple of the 3 Windows, offering blessings at the sacred Pachamama stone, admiring the precise circular stone architecture at the Temple of the Sun with its gigantic stone altar. I have a clear view of the long grass plaza where gatherings and ceremonies were held and I sense the presence of the ancient ones still walking there. The plaza is the center of balance in Machu Picchu sitting between the male and female sides of the city. The tall feminine mountain, Huyanu Picchu sits on one side of the Crystal City and the masculine peak of Machu Picchu mountain is at the other end. The smaller peak of the Putakusi, sitting between the other two mountains is the place of balance, drawing the male and female energies together in harmony. Peace is found when everything is in balance, Machu Picchu offers a healing message to the world.
Time seems to stop here, I feel myself moving deeper into balance, remnants of chaos and turmoil churning around inside of me dissipate. I feel nothing but love and acceptance. This magical place is truly alive; the stones speak silent messages, giving me insight and clarity to my own inner questions. Everything seems effortless; sitting quietly in meditation is easy. I don’t fidget and resist being with myself as I do at home. All the confusion and cobwebs disappear from my head, my thinking is so clear. Like popcorn popping, revelations and creative ideas pop into my mind, it is truly startling! Never before have I felt so wise.
I sense I am not alone here. Walking through the ruins I often stop and turn around, feeling as if someone is walking behind me. This is not scary; it is a comforting experience. It feels like a familiar presence, an invisible personal guide, a mentor, a teacher, escorting me to places in the ruins that have what I am searching for on a consciousness level. Trials and tribulations of the "outer" material world don’t exist here, genuine wisdom is found in simplicity, reality is found "inside" myself and this is where I create what I see and experience in my "outer" life.
Machu Picchu has once again reminded me that life is not complicated, I am the one who makes it so. All the answers are inside of me, I just keep forgetting to look there, Machu Picchu has once again brought me home to that place of love inside myself. These ancient stones are like old and trusted friends, giving me feedback, helping me reconnect with simple truths that I have blinded myself to with outer distractions. Spirit elders have welcomed me with open arms like a wayward child coming home for comfort and assurance. I sit with them in council, in ancient temples of stone and feel their wisdom flow into my subconscious and once again I feel whole.
A few days at Machu Picchu is like the equivalent of several years of therapy for me. A shift has happened, I have moved into a deeper level of my own self-knowledge. As I leave I carry this energy with me back into my day to day life and work. I know that it will ooze out of me like rich thick honey spreading its sweetness to all I come in contact with. The wisdom and power that the Lost City in the Clouds, Machu Picchu, has shared with me will sustain me until I return once again as a humble pilgrim. Traveling on an "outer" discovery adventure but most importantly on an "inner" journey of discovery for my spirit.
Copyright © 2000 Gayle Lawrence. All rights reserved.
Gayle Lawrence operates Journeys of Discovery - Unique Travel for women. If you would like to contact her you can email: info@www.ajourneyofdiscovery.com. For descriptions of her other trip offerings visit: http://www.ajourneyofdiscovery.com
