Jackson Hole, Wyoming,
a winter wonderland adventure
by Lynn McKamey Part1/2

Our big event of the year is the "annual family ski trip", a tradition which started more than 20 years ago when the kids were tiny tots and ski resorts were just coming into popularity.  My husband learned to ski while attending college in upstate New York and fell in love with the sport.  After he returned to warm, sunny, and snowless South Texas, ski vacations were at the top of his list of things to do. 

When the kids were young, we went to Snowmass, Vail, and Breckenridge - all excellent destinations for families.  As the kids and their daddy became better skiers, we stayed in Aspen where Ajax (Aspen Mountain) provided a challenge, and Snowmass was just down the road for a relaxing day (apres Ajax?) on the slopes.  We then visited Park City, another good family resort, and wandered over to Snowbird and Alta on day trips just to see what they were all about. 

Along the way, two other families began to travel with us, bringing the group total to over 15 people, ranging from low intermediate to almost expert level.  Since I was the "trip planner", my job became quite interesting to find new places for all to shop, eat, ski, and enjoy winter activities.  The kids became twenty-ish year olds looking for all kinds of things to do besides "just ski"!  Plus our group consisted of a farmer, two lawyers, a real estate developer, an engineer, art majors, an Air Force U2 pilot, science and math teachers, a drummer in a rock and roll band, business majors, and a psychologist... talk about an assorted group of people and interests! 

Last year at Christmas, we all went to Lake Tahoe which dumped more rain than snow on the slopes.  The casinos were fun, the lake drives were lovely, but the skiing was not the best.  So, we decided to venture as far north as possible this year and hopefully catch some flakes.  Jackson Hole seemed a good choice, although friends of ours had endured temperatures of 40 BELOW four years ago during the holidays - lots of snow and super cooled temperatures to go with it!  We kept our fingers crossed and hoped for good weather. 

After skiing mostly in Colorado all these years, we found that Jackson Hole provided a totally different experience.  Our American Airlines plane descended into the snow covered vast valley, surrounded by awesome mountains and peaks.  Tiny dots below became hundreds of elk as we dropped closer.  The noon sun shined down on a perfect winter wonderland with a temperature of 7 degrees!  Surprisingly, it DIDN’T feel that cold as we deboarded the plane, but it didn’t take me long to start thinking about shopping for a full length wool coat, warmer gloves, and lambswool hat! 
 

A small, but well stocked grocery-deli plus liquor store was located next to the resort office, as was a complex with ski rental shop, health club with hot tub, exercise machines, and racquetball courts.  Even better (as far as I was concerned) was the best restaurant in Jackson Hole - Stieglers with Austrian Continental cuisine on par with 4 star places in New York City.  If you only eat one elegant meal while in Jackson, go to Stieglers!  The Racquet Club provided complimentary transportation to and from the mountain, and city buses came by at regularly scheduled times for $2 trips into town.  With three rental cars and the bus systems, our group of 15 had no problem coming and going in 15 different directions. 

Those needing to rent ski equipment went to Pepi Stiegler Sports at Teton Village; the rest of us went to Albertson’s Grocery in Jackson to load up on food and snacks.  We then settled in and spent our first evening reading through all the activities brochures to plan our week of winter fun. 
 
The Jackson Hole area is a huge valley, 15 miles wide and 80 miles long, surrounded by the majestic mountains of Grand Teton National Park.  The town of Jackson is located near the southern end of the valley; the airport is 8 miles north of Jackson and Teton Village is 12 miles northwest of the town.  An elk refuge and related museum is between the airport and Jackson and offers sleigh rides through the elk herds from mid-December to mid-March for $10 a person.  The south entrance of Yellowstone National Park is 60 miles north and Old Faithful is 40 miles further.  The wilderness areas of the Parks can be toured by snowmobile, dog sled, snow shoes, and cross country skis. 

Three different ski mountains are in the area.  Jackson Hole Mountain is the largest and has the steepest vertical rise of any ski resort in North America - 4,139’ from top to bottom.  With lots of sheer drops and narrow chutes, it long ago gained the reputation of being for experts only.  However, 40% of the runs are for intermediate skiers and are scattered over two-thirds of the mountain; 10% of the runs are for beginners.  A tram takes experts to the top of Rendezvous Mountain at 10,450’, while nine lifts provide access to lower parts and Apres Vous Mountain at 8,481’.  An average of 400" of dry powder snow falls annually and the resort has snow making equipment. 
Snow King Ski Area is located in the town of Jackson and has 400 acres of terrain.  It has a vertical rise of 1,571’, 3 lifts, and offers 15% beginner trails, 25% intermediate slopes, and 60% advanced runs.  Night skiing is available Monday through Saturday. 

Grand Targhee Mountain is located on the west side of the Tetons, about an hours drive or express bus ride from Jackson.  With 500" of snow each year and 70% intermediate runs, it is a family favorite.  It has a vertical rise of 2,200’ with 1,500 acres of terrain and four lifts on one mountain, plus another 1,500 acres on an adjoining mountain which has no lifts but offers powder skiing accessible by snowcats! 

Jackson is centered around a landmark town square, anchored at each corner with huge walk-through arches of intertwined elk horns.  A good selection of gift shops, clothing stores, art galleries, bars, and restaurants surround the square.  (Yep, I found a cozy long wool coat, hat, and gloves.) 
 

Our group of mostly intermediate skiers enjoyed Grand Targhee, and discovered plenty of good runs on Jackson Hole Mountain.  The experts happily found some powder and attacked the black diamond runs with vigor; they took only one wrong turn and ended up at the edge of a double diamond cliff with no way out but DOWN - fortunately, they survived the leap of faith and slid down intact.  Five took snowboard lessons - those who were experienced South Texas windsurfers, like Reagan shown below, did quite well, while some of the others spent most of the day falling one way or another and had plenty of bruises to show for it! 
 

Four decided to do an all day Yellowstone trip to Old Faithful and called Mountain High Adventures at (307) 733-5251.  Their trip started with a pickup at the resort at 6:45.  They were taken to the Wort Hotel for a full breakfast with other members of the party, followed by a stop to be outfitted with warm snowmobile suits, boots, helmets, and face masks.  After an hour drive to Yellowstone, their group of seven people embarked on a two hour ride with several stops at waterfalls and a bison herd before reaching Old Faithful.  After spending an hour exploring the area, eating lunch, and visiting a ranger station, they snowmobiled back to the starting point and made several stops along the way to see the scenery. 
 

Interestingly, the same guide, Daryl, lead the Yellowstone group AND my husband and daughter’s trip... all reported that Daryl was great fun and very knowledgeable about the area; he’s a fishing guide during summer.  So, do yourself a favor... don’t spend all day calling bunches of snowmobile outfits, just call Llama Louie at (307) 733-1617 and let him help you decide which trip is right for you!  Lou also does summer hiking trips through the National Parks and llamas carry the gear, not YOU!  All in all, our diverse group had a great time, some say the "best ever"! 
 

SUGGESTED PLACES TO STAY IN JACKSON:  

The town of Jackson has a wide range of accommodations from basic hotel rooms to elegant inns.  Teton Village at the base of the mountain has all kinds of condominiums and several hotels.  For complete information, call Jackson Hole Central Reservations at 1-800-443-6931 or check with your favorite travel agent. 

Places I visited and recommend (1994-1995 winter season nightly rates): 
Middle of town:  The Wort Hotel, Jackson’s Historic Landmark.  Sixty rooms and suites offer downtown elegance and a quiet western atmosphere.  It is an AAA four-diamond hotel and has an indoor Jacuzzi, fitness room, complimentary airport shuttle, and the Silver Dollar Bar and Grill.  Winter season rates are $130 for a standard room; $170 for a Jr. Suite; $295 for a one bedroom suite.  Call (800) 322-2727 or (307) 733-2190. 

Two blocks from the town square: The Rusty Parrot Lodge, a four star, four diamond rated, luxury inn with 33 non-smoking rooms.  Each room has handcrafted furniture, down comforters, oversized bathrooms, and television.  Some accommodations have fireplaces or whirlpool baths large enough for two people.  A full breakfast with several menu choices is included in rates.  Although this is a large B & B, it offers a very personal touch.  A room with one or two queen beds is $145 a night; queen bed with fireplace is $165; queen bed with double whirlpool bath and fireplace is $185; the spacious two room suite is $375.  While this Lodge is in Jackson, it has a remote "outdoor" setting since it overlooks a nearby mountain and a park - you’ll have to remember that you are only two blocks from the busy town square. (One night as we drove through town, visitors were feeding three deer standing in the park across from the lodge.) Call (307) 733-2000 or (800) 458-2004. 

Five miles from town, halfway to Teton village:  The Sassy Moose Inn Bed and Breakfast.  Polly Englant is the hostess to this cute five room B & B with a loft lounging area.  It has a large living room with T.V. and fireplace, indoor hot tub, kitchen for complimentary breakfasts, and overlooks the mountains.  Rooms range from $99 to $129 a night and the whole B & B can be booked for groups of 10 to 15.  Call Polly at (307) 733-1277 or (800) 356-1277. 

Six miles from town: Teton Pines Hotel Suites surrounded by a snow-covered golf course (in winter) next to the Racquet Club.  One bedroom rates are $160; two room suites are $195; a suite with two bedrooms is $360.  Call (307) 733-1005 or (800) 238-2223. 
 
Halfway between Jackson and the ski mountain:  Jackson Hole Racquet Club Resort (where we stayed) which offers a  full range of accommodations from studio to condos and 3-4 bedroom houses in a lovely outdoor setting.  The complex includes a market/deli, liquor store, athletic facility, gourmet restaurant Stieglers, jacuzzis, and racquetball courts.  Complimentary transportation to Jackson Hole Mountain.   Winter rates for a studio are $149 per night; 1 bedroom $179; 2 bedroom $249; 3 bedroom $329.  Call (307) 733-3990 or (800) 433-8616 for complete information. 

PLACES TO EAT:  

Stieglers Restaurant and Bar located at the Jackson Hole Racquet Club on Teton Village Road.  Wonderful Austrian Continental dining with attentive service.  Dinner from 6 - 10 pm, Tuesday through Sunday.  Call (307) 733-1071 for reservations. 

The Grille at the Pines in Teton Pines Resort has a nice selection of beef, chicken, fish, and lamb dishes plus pasta specialities.  Call (307) 733-1005. 

The Blue Lion in downtown Jackson has "creative" continental cuisine.  Call (307) 733-3912. 

The Acadian House offers authentic Cajun dishes, not too spicy 
unless you request it.  739-1269 

Tortilla Flats near the Snow King Resort features New Mexican food. 
739-9800 

Vista Grande on the Teton Village Road has a wide variety of Mexican 
entries plus tasty Margaritas.  733-6964 

Calico Pizza Parlor on Teton Village Road has super pizzas and does 
winter deliveries to the Aspens/Teton Village area.  733-2460 

Jedediah’s House of Sourdough near the town square has delicious breakfasts and outstanding homemade soups and sandwiches for lunch. 
(our favorite day place to eat) 733-5671 

NIGHTLIFE:  

Jackson doesn’t have a LOT of night spots, but here's a few fun places to try: 

The Mangy Moose is Teton Village’s favorite hangout and apres ski 
bar.  It has ski movies, national entertainment, and dancing.  A 
stuffed moose (the whole thing) pulling a sled hangs from the 
rafters and observes all the party people.  733-4913 

Million Dollar Cowboy Bar on the town square has live country music 
and country swing dance lessons.  Sit on a saddle while you drink a 
cold one!  733-2207 

Shady Lady Saloon at the Snow King Resort has live entertainment and 
an intimate atmosphere.  733-5200 

OTHER THINGS TO DO IN JACKSON:  

Take a dog sled trip, a dinner sleigh ride, bowl and play pool, ice skate, visit Idaho’s hot pools and olympic swimming complex, and go on another snowmobile tour!  Just call Llama Louie's Day Trips (307) 733-1617 or drop by his offce next to the Mangy Moose at Teton Village. 
 
For complete travel, lodging, and airline reservations: 
Contact your favorite travel agent or call Olson Travel (800) 525-8090 or (512) 643-4555 or FAX (512) 643-6975.  

Photo credits: Jackson Square by K. McKamey, all others by Henry Nuss shown relaxing on a snowmobile after taking the Yellowstone trip. 
 

You can visit Lynn at http://www.scubamom.com/travels/

You can email Lynn at scubamom@scubamom.com