Whale Tales - Snorkeling with Humpback
Whales in the Dominican Republic
Gayle Lawrence
Gayle Lawrence is the creator of Journeys of Discovery, small group transforming travel experiences for women. Several of her trips are very unique nature and animal encounters in the wild. Wild dolphin swim trips are part of her itinerary so this trip opportunity to get very "up-close-and-personal" with Humpback Whales was something she felt compelled to experience.
Earlier this year I found myself taking a small group of women 90 miles off the coast of the Dominican Republic to an area called the Silver Banks where we would be surrounded by Humpback Whales! I'll coin a phrase I read by Dr. Marsha Green, founder of the Ocean Mammal Institute, "Women By Whale light", that was a perfect description of myself and the other women who were with me for this soul transforming experience.
The famous marine mammal artist Wyland says, "the eye of a whale is as deep as any ocean", this I can confirm from first hand experience as I floated in the water and gazed into the eye of a humpback. I found myself lost within the liquid gaze of this magnificent, intelligent creature and on a personal and spiritual level I will never be the same.
The weather was wonderful upon arrival in Puerto Plata, Dominican Republic. Warm island breezes, bright sunlight and gently swaying palm trees. Pedro, our prearranged driver, met us at the airport and drove us to the commercial pier in Puerto Plata to board the Bottom Time, the boat that would be our home for the next 6 days for this unbelievable opportunity to have in-water "up close and personal" encounters with Humpback Whales.
The Bottom Time is a 90 foot, diesel powered, sleek and fast, triple deck catamaran. The boat which was originally designed as a dive boat was basic comfort, no frills, but perfectly fine. Small cabins, bunk beds, and shared showers and heads (bathroom). The dining area on the 2nd deck was always open for snacks, soft drinks or coffee and the food was well prepared and plentiful. There were 20 passengers plus 6 crewmembers, a very warm and congenial group of people. All of us consumed with the wonder and mystique of whales.
We left port early the next morning for a 5 hour ride that took us 90 miles out into open water, to an area called the Silver Banks, winter birthing and mating grounds for the Atlantic Humpback Whales. Here we would anchor for these next few days as we shared above water and in-water encounters with one of the largest and most captivating mammals on the planet; the Humpback Whale.
The Silver Bank area encompasses a 65-mile radius composed of huge coral heads that extend from the ocean bottom showing themselves above the surface of the water. The coral provides a safe and secure place free of sharks and the warm Caribbean waters provide the perfect environment for giving birth to baby Humpbacks.
Our first day out we had mind boggling, on going, in-water encounters with the whales. Mothers with their calves are usually the most receptive and curious, and very often are escorted by a "VERY LARGE" male.
The first time I entered the water I was astounded when I gazed through my snorkel mask and floating directly underneath me was an immense adult humpback whale, 15-foot pectoral fins fully outstretched. She was beautiful, I was dumbfounded!
I felt like I was in another dimension, the rays from the sun were filtering down through the water and glistening like a halo, a light filled aura, around the whale. The vision in front of me was like a whale angel.
It was awesome, I wasn't sure if this was really happening! Suddenly I understood why she had not been moving when to my surprise and delight, her baby (calf) appeared from underneath her where he had obviously been nursing hidden from sight. As he rolled over on his back he and I looked directly into one anothers eyes, it was magical and very emotional. We gazed at each other for a moment then he rolled over on his mother’s back and then my view was of mom and baby super-imposed on top of one another. Newborn calves need to breath about every 5 minutes so they began to surface as they moved out in front of me.
As if that wasn't enough of a first time experience, from underneath me and to my right I then saw her male escort moving toward her. He was absolutely ENORMOUS, and I could hardly believe I was having this incredible experience! Humpbacks average between 40-50 ft., and weigh from 75,000 to 100,000 pounds. Calves weigh an average of 3,000 lbs. at birth. The sight of this huge male silently gliding by right underneath me literally took my breath away!
Floating on the surface of the water like a hypnotized piece of seaweed I watched the 3 of them swim off together. Finally I came out of this trance like state and swam back to the small zodiak that we used to venture out among the whales. I was lost in the rapture of the experience for quite some time. Back in the zodiak, we were all babbling excitedly yet all of us felt this had been a sacred encounter. We had many similar experiences that left me feeling in awe of these gentle, beautiful and extremely graceful creatures.
Some whales are very curious, especially the calves, they would approach and swim beside the boat, roll over on their sides, lift their heads out of the water and really look us over. They were as curious about us as we were about them. There was plenty of dramatic and staggering above water action also. A lot of breaching (leaping straight up out of the water with almost their entire body visible), tail slapping, (we watched one whale slap 41 times in a row), pec (fin) slapping, and spy hopping (lifting their heads out of the water to look at us). Watching the mothers teach their calves these necessary whale behaviors in such a loving and caring way was touching and heart-warming.
Watching a mother stroke her calf with this limb-like pectoral fin caused my heart to swell with emotion. We would often observe the cows herd their calves over to us as if to say, "OK honey, I want you to get a good look at these strange looking creatures…………we call them humans and they are quite odd indeed!!"
The males are the singers and are famous for their haunting songs. You could hear them very loudly and clearly under the water. The Humpback Whale songs are so magical and otherworldly that they were sent out on Voyager I and II spacecraft as samples of sounds from earth. Of course my theory is that whales and extra-terrestrials are so evolved that they would naturally understand one another. NASA must share my feelings! We on several occasions even heard them from the boat when they were in their very low pitch part of their song. It was amazing and seemed to touch an ancient memory somewhere deep inside of me.
It was truly a once in a lifetime experience and after being this close and swimming with a Humpback Whale I will never be the same. The Silver Banks whale sanctuary area which is governed by the Dominican Republic government is perhaps the only place in the world where a handful of travelers will ever have the opportunity for an in-water encounter with a Humpback Whale. To gaze into the eye of a whale is an experience that touched my soul in a way that I will never forget.
This is a trip I can hardly wait to experience again and I will be taking a small group to the Dominican Republic for this Humpback Whale encounter Feb. 26 - March 4, 2000. If you would like to join me for this life-changing experience, please contact me at: sevensisters@cplx.com or call 1-888-285-1585.
For other trip destinations and descriptions please visit: http://www.cyberpathway.com/journeys
