Notes On Japan
by Myrna James

It is very strange arriving here - almost like I've just left home, though I've been gone for two months, since Australia is so similar to the US. Culture shock didn't set in at Narita airport outside Tokyo, since the signs there are all in English as well as Japanese, but it did soon thereafter.

Arriving in the city, exploring the neighborhood of my friend Yama's extra apartment, it became very clear that the signs weren't going to help. I would need to peer into each window as I approached to learn if the places were restaurants or flower shops. While essentially a business investment, the apartment is located in an area where stores are closed on the weekends and people migrate in for the workweek.

The language is the most obvious difference. The Australians, though it took some time getting used to the accents, were speaking English! And the Aussies seem to be somehow impressed with Americans, for no apparent reason. We are quite popular there. Here in Japan, I am on their turf, reminded so each day by confusing signs and difficulty with everything, from operating the washing machine to looking up the phone number for United Airlines.

They seem to have Kit Kat candy bars everywhere here, which are currently taking the place of my favorite Plain M&M's in the daypack. (In Australia, where it's sunny and warm, I kept the M&M's in the sun and ate them with the chocolate melted - yummy! Both provide an all-important comfort factor from home.)

Mom is spending a week with me here. We have made ourselves snug here in the largest city in the world, in our little two-room apartment overlooking three layers of freeway, facing a few tall buildings like the ANA Hotel, SUNTORY Concert Hall, and ARK HILLS Business Center. We are having exquisite Japanese food most evenings, yaki-turi, sasimi, and tempura. And just a pedway-tunnel away from the apartment are Subway and Starbucks, in case we need just a little western fast food.

Our friend Yama attended high school at Hoxie High with me in 1982 (16 years ago- now that really makes me feel old) and Mother was his English teacher. Indeed, her visit here is more to see him than the sites, or maybe even me! He has a lovely wife, Mika, and two kids, Shintaro, and Maria, five and three. They lead a very busy, successful life, with Yama spending many hours at work and at business dinners. He works at UBS, which is currently going through a huge merger, while also dealing with the current volatile Asian economies. Mika is spending most of her time tutoring the children for entrance exams to the private schools they hope to attend, from this tender age on. The private school systems here are so competitive; they require even the youngest prospects to do many intelligence tests, puzzles, basic math and even have physical requirements. They work very hard as children, and once getting into the best universities, such as Tokyo University, they don't have to study much. Learning English is extremely important for anyone who wants to work in the global market, and Yama credits my mother for his excellent command of the language.

Yama has been the most wonderful host! He has put us up in an apartment and made all arrangements for us to attend many excellent cultural events, including the Yomiuri Nippon Symphony Orchestra in Tokyo, celebrating their 35th Anniversary with a presentation of Peter Grimes, Opus 33, Concert Style by Benjamin Britten, a 20th century English composer. Yama has also taken us to some wonderful restaurants. My favorite was on the top floor of the Azule Shibe office building, facing Tokyo Tower (which incidentally reminds me of the Eiffel Tower each time I catch a glimpse of it). The place is called Miyako, and we had a private room and dedicated chef, who grilled our steak to perfection. This was the moment we had been waiting for, in order to compare Japanese beef with Dad's Kansas beef, in an attempt to explain why Japanese beef is so expensive. I have to admit that this was truly delicious. It seemed a bit more tender and juicy. But it all depends on how you prepare it as well. I can't declare a winner; it's a tie, perhaps out of loyalty to my father. I hear that the Japanese play classical music for the cattle, while rubbing beer on their coats, all of which makes the beef have better marbling. I don't think I can buy all that, but what else are you selling?

While in Kyoto touring temples and shrines, Mom and I ducked into a jazz club for lunch, joining quiet Asian business people, most of whom were reading contentedly off to the side of their food. I had spaghetti with tuna and tomatoes, which was wonderful, partly because it reminded me of the tuna we had for many many meals on the Great Ocean Road Tour with Matt in Australia. Mom's personal sized quiche was good, too.

We stayed the night in a nicer hotel, the Karasuma Kyoto Hotel. Having eaten quite a bit of Japanese food already (we had been in Japan, like two nights) we decided to attempt to order a pizza. I called the concierge, who immediately got on the project and within minute brought to our room a faxed menu for none other than Chicago Pizza Factory! He, the concierge, Hideo (whose name is the same as the Japanese star pro baseball player in California, he said) was delightful, grinning the whole time. I am sure we provided him with an entertaining story to share with his buddies over Sapporos. We had pizza delivered and didn't have to leave the room, though Japanese television sure ain't Seinfeld. Sumo wrestling and cartoons and commercials had some entertainment value.

The most amazing concierge in Japan is Hideo at the Karasuma Kyoto Hotel, located at Karasuma Shijo Shimogyo-Ku in Kyoto. The phone is 011-81-75-223-2333. In Tokyo you may call 011-81-3-3503-7121; locally you would dial the last 8 digits.

TRADITIONAL JAPANESE THEATRE: KABUKI NIGHT

Mom and I have had a traditional evening, beginning with sukiyaki for dinner, thinly sliced beef and vegetables cooked in the center of a low traditional table, dipped in raw egg. This was complete with saki, the alcoholic drink made from rice and served hot in tiny cups.

We then attended a performance of traditional Japanese Kabuki Theatre at the famous home of Kabuki, The Kabuki-Za Theatre in the Ginza area of Tokyo. It is high drama, very interesting, in Japanese but with an English headset. This was very helpful in understanding the plot, which was full of bribes, vendettas, ritual suicides, much attention to protocol and sacrificial loyalty. Near the end of the play, the heroine, Okaru sells herself to the "pleasure quarters" to raise money for her lover to join the vendetta to kill a man who caused the death of his master by provoking him, causing him to draw his sword in the shogun's palace, a crime punished by sentencing him to commit ritual suicide, which he did. I am not kidding!

Imagine trying to follow this plot without a translation. I bet the Japanese don't know what's going on either. I only learned the entire 10-hour plot by taking 30 minutes to read the leaflet, highlighting important parts. The action is slow and drawn-out to emphasize the drama; no wonder it takes all day to get the story across. I really enjoyed what we did see, but Yama has seen Kabuki only once, as a child, and won't go back!

It is truly entertaining to observe the audience. As a way of showing appreciation, the locals shout out the name of the actors' drama schools (YAGO) and generation numbers, well-timed bursts of short syllables, thrown out after important lines and during applause. This shouting is called Kakegoe. Be advised to remain silent and just clap!

This March performance of the play Kanadehom Chushingura commemorates the 250th anniversary of the premier of the play. It is a full-length performance of only the most famous acts, and goes on all day; it began at 11:00 am, while we attended only the final hours.(top)

JAPANESE HISTORY LESSON

Mom and I joined a structured tour of Kyoto shrines and temples operating from Tokyo. It was very well-organized, with escorts for us every step of the way. Mostly young women with a fair command of English, perhaps in their first professional jobs, the guides took us in cabs, led us through the train stations, sent us off with waves and grins as the trains pulled away, and met us at every turn. The bullet train ride was so smooth and the seats very roomy, especially compared to the bus. The train speed was about 180 miles per hour, causing my ears to pop occasionally.

One of the lovely Japanese girls who was helping the tour guide keep track of us kept saying the same thing over and over as we disembarked at yet another tourist site. We were quite sure it was "Watch your step" but learned later she was saying "Have a good time."

During our brief stay in Kyoto, we learned a thumbnail sketch of Japanese history. Tokyo is the current capital and obvious business center of Japan, but Kyoto was capital from 794 A.D. to 1868. Until then, Tokyo was named Eto, and the years of 1603-1868 were important as an era of peace and self-imposed isolation from the rest of the world. The isolation was a policy of the ruling Tokugawa family, which ruled Japan as shoguns, or military dictators, for 15 generations. This time is referred to as the Edo Period.

Tea has a long history and significance in Japan, as in many Asian cultures. The Shoguns were presented with many ladies because each needed to have a son to take over his power, so these ladies, in addition to his wife, would hope to have a boy. Each lady would pour him tea. If he didn't like that particular woman, he would say, "That's not my cup of tea," and she would be dismissed. And we use that phrase today!

In 1853 it was Colonel Perry from America who approached Japan with four warships, asking to open the ports for trade. The Shogun asked him to return one year later, and when he did, Colonel Perry had seven warships. Taking the hint, Japan then opened her ports to western products and influences. In 1868, the Shogun voluntarily returned rule to the Emperor, had always been a figurehead void of actual power. This is when the Emperor moved the capital to Eto, which he renamed Tokyo, meaning "East Capitol." This was actually a "restoration" of power to the Emperor, as the shogun with his military power took over by force in 1192, thereafter using the housing and controlling the country.

The current Emperor is the son of the well-known Hirohito, who was Emperor during World War II. He still lives with his family in the center of Tokyo at the Imperial Palace, surrounded by a large moat and gardens.

KYOTO HISTORICAL SITES

THE HEIAN SHRINE for the Shintu religion, which worships many objects, often their ancestors, past Shoguns or Emperors, is fashioned in the Chinese style with bright orange walls and green roof, with upturned corners and ornate entrances. It features an olive tree on one side, symbolizing long life, and a cherry tree on the other, for loyalty, and a white tiger and blue dragon to protect the quarters from the west and the east respectively. There are lovely gardens with ponds, bridges and walkways. Those who come to pray clap their hands twice, quickly and loudly. The reason for this is not clear; some believe that it wakes up the divinities, who must listen to the prayers. Worshipers may take a fortune, but then leave the paper behind so the divinities will read them and make sure their wonderful fates come true. This place is also famous for the stack of kegs of saki out front.

SANJUSANGENDO HALL, a long wooden building 120 meters long, houses 1,001 statues of Kannon that date back 700 years. The name means "hall with 33 bays." The number 33 is derived from the belief that Kannon-Bodhisattva saves all of mankind by disguising himself into 33 different figures. This hall was built in 1164 at the request of Emperor Goshirakawa, who was a pious devotee to Kannon. The hall is also famous for the archery tournaments held there through the ages. The archers must shoot the arrows to the end of the hall, through a very narrow space, in 24 hours. The record is held by Wasa Daihachiro, who at 22 years of age in 1686 shot 13,953 arrows, succeeding in sending 8,133 of them to the end of the hall. An exhibition match is held every year on January 15.

KIYOMIZU TEMPLE is situated high on a hill overlooking Kyoto, atop a quaint old city lane lined with pottery shops and gift shops. This temple is also for worshipers to make wishes and prayers, drinking from holy water and leaving their fortunes for the divine ones to find.

NIJO CASTLE, which was the Kyoto residence of the Tokugawa Shoguns, was built in 1603. It has amazing floors that squeak when you walk upon them, called "Nightingale Floors" to warn the people of approaching visitors or enemies. These rulers lived in the cold. They did not attempt to heat the castle with fire or coal; they simply wore layers of clothes and lived with the cold. The paintings and wood carvings upon the walls mostly of pine trees and tigers, were done by young artists. The castle is representative of the height of Momoyama architecture, and in its day served as a symbol of the power and authority of the Tokugawa military rule. It was returned to the Imperial family in 1884, after the shoguns restored power to the Emperor. In 1939 the castle was donated to the city of Kyoto, and was opened to the public in 1940.

THE GOLDEN PAVILION is gorgeous, with 22k gold leaf on the outside, redone just 6 years ago, and is located in the most authentic Japanese style garden in the world. It is called Kinkaku-ji Temple, built in the 1220's and made more beautiful by the 3rd Shogun of Ashikaga, Yoshimitsu in 1394. The grounds were made into a Zen temple in accordance with his will. The second and third floors are covered with 22k gold-leaf on Japanese lacquer. The roof is thatched with shingles and a golden Chinese phoenix is perched on top. The restoration of the temple was completed in 1987, with the present gold-leaf being five times thicker than the original.

KYOTO IMPERIAL PALACE was where the Emperor stayed when in Kyoto, and all coronation ceremonies had been there until the current Emperor, whose coronation was in Tokyo. We were unable to enter the buildings, and the grounds were rather common. This palace is no longer used, as it lacks modern amenities.

These tours, both Kabuki Night and Kyoto Temples and Shrines by bullet train were with Sunrise Tours. I would highly recommend the Kyoto tour. It was well-organized with a representative with you at all times, except for the actual train rides. Six sites spread over two days was ideal. I would do Kabuki Night on my own next time. Sunrise Tours have all variations of destinations and timeframes and can be reached at (075) 341-1413 in Tokyo.

THE INAKAYA EXPERIENCE

Inakaya is one of the most famous and expensive restaurants in Japan. It is not, however, exclusive. It is a loud, fun and festive atmosphere, the fever of which you catch as you enter through the small sliding door. The first thing I noticed was the masculine shouting, all in Japanese. I have no idea what they were saying, but it means something like, "beef! rare! medium! two potatoes! two crablegs! one chicken! for the wimp who doesn't want sasimi..." and so on. Occasionally I could make out a word or two I knew, like my escort's name in greeting, "Miller san!"

The patrons are mostly businesspeople, mostly men on the night I was there. They are poised and ready to pounce at any opportunity. These men, mostly in suits, are packed tightly into their seats in a large horseshoe. I felt their eyes upon me, being one of the few women in the room, and the last to fill in the gap at the far side of the horseshoe. After a few brief minutes, I reached under the table to get my pen, (taking notes, as usual) and brushed my bag against my neighbor's leg, who jumped on the opportunity to say "Hey, you can do that anytime."

I was there with Steve Miller, who lives in Tokyo, running the Nike office there, and with whom I used to work at Kansas State University. He has taken a few athletes to Inakaya, including Monica Seles, Andre Agassi and a few others. When I learned this, I was really starting to feel special! And the regulars were wondering what my sport was! Not!

At all times, there are two chefs in the center, facing front, squatting on a colorful flat pillow, hands moving constantly with food going on and off the grill very efficiently. They deliver directly into your hands all courses and Sapporos on an outstretched paddle, in the style of the Robotoki, which is a Country Style Pub and Restaurant. This requires the cooks to stretch forward, then lean sideways; it's really quite a skill requiring excellent balance! Our chef quietly disappeared through the curtain behind him at one point, and a fresh young man took his place, yelling various things (I still don't know what) in that Japanese way. He was thrilled to be there, though there was nothing to cook just then. And just a few minutes later our master chef reappeared, looking a bit revitalized. The novice never got the chance to show his stuff!(top)

Japan Journal: Mom's Perspective

Let me tell you what is interesting about this whole experience with Myrna: What is really meaningful to me is the long-term story, the journey that began when she was an adventurous toddler trying to learn to deal with frustration and that continues in these courageous travels to exotic places -- still adventurous, still dealing with frustration. The toddler was very much the woman, in this most literal sense: the summer when Myrna was about three, she became very angry with me, packed up her suitcase, and ran away from home. Grammy, from next door, who was not her grandma but knew how to act like one, saw her sitting on the curb at the corner with her arm around her suitcase and, naturally, went out to discuss with her exactly what her purpose was. Where was she going with the suitcase? She was running away, she said. What did she have in the suitcase? Jammies and crackers and a book. And why was she sitting on the curb? Because Mommy wouldn't let her cross the street! (She always found a way to be both rebellious and obedient.) This spring, when I met Myrna in Tokyo, we had to have a good laugh, for guess what was among other things in her backpack -- jammies and crackers and a book. I guess we are what we are, from day one. And now, she's allowed to cross the street.

Myrna left the professional world of national magazine ad sales in Chicago to travel around the world! She sought eternal truths and true beauty, and found them. She left in January 1998, going to Australia, New Zealand, around Asia (Japan, China) then to Thailand and Nepal. The rest of the year was in Europe, mostly Turkey. She returned in December, then left again for five more months to do Habitat for Humanity Global Village in New Zealand and Alaska in 1999. She now resides in Denver, Colorado, near her hometown of Hoxie, Kansas.

You can visit Myrna's web site at www.GoGlobalGirl.com, and email Myrna at mljames@attglobal.net