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210 Circle Inn #82
Chubbuck, Idaho 83202
208 637 1803
 
A travel report by Lynn McKamey (ScubaMom)
 
Santa Fe is truly unique and calls itself "the city different".  That's quite true - no other place in the world offers such a concentration of  Native American arts, culture, and South Western history. 

The city is 7,300' above sea level and has a cool, dry desert climate.  Set near the gorgeous foothills of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains, some of the nearby mountain peaks are over 12,000 feet and local ski areas often have snow pack in excess of 100 inches. 

We've been vacationing in Santa Fe for years, but had never been there during the winter season.  Our family chose it for our 1998 holiday vacation with hopes that snow might be on the mountains so that we could combine skiing with sightseeing and shopping. 

We were joined by friends which brought our group total to 14 with ages from 24 to 56 coming from all over the country - Vermont, Boston, Durango, and Texas.  Half drove to Santa Fe, the others flew to Albuquerque.  In past years, we've spent our holidays in Lake Tahoe, Jackson Hole, Banff, and Salt Lake City - quite a distance from our home towns, so I had thought that Santa Fe would be easy to reach via airlines and buses - I was quite wrong!  More about that later. 

When planning this trip, I looked for condominiums near the center of town and found only a few which could accommodate large families.  Fort Marcy Condos north of the Plaza was a possibility, but was booked for our time period, however the Eldorado Hotel manages the Zona Rosa Condominiums and had 3 bedroom units available.  Only 4 blocks from the Plaza, they were an excellent choice!  At the last minute, our youngest daughter and her friend decided to join us, so Eldorado reservations booked them a cute room at the Las Palomas Casitas, another property it manages, and just a half block from our condos. For more information, go to my detailed review of these properties by clicking HERE

As always, there is plenty to do in Santa Fe - shop, visit all the museums, browse the stores and galleries on Canyon Road, take day trips to the mountains, and eat. 
 

Restaurants

The first night, we had dinner at the Pinon Grill - the favourite entree was "Chimayo Chile Seared Prime Rib" best described as mesquite grilled, blacked beef encrusted with mild New Mexican spices!  Don't miss ordering this flavorful dish.  The next day, we had an early lunch at Pasquelle's which offers some of the best mexican food, sandwiches, and soups in Santa Fe.  The restaurant is tiny and there's always a line, but it's well worth the wait. 

The Shed offered excellent New Mexican cuisine - one family ate lunch there; the other enjoyed dinner.  We also discovered the Plaza Restaurant, a diner really, with great choices of good basic American and Mexican food.  One of our favourite Santa Fe restaurants is Tomasita's - while it advertises North New Mexican food, we think it's very close to Tex-Mex.  Our vegetarian daughter was in heaven since they offer lots of meatless choices. 

We chose the Pink Adobe for our "holiday dinner" - as always the selections were excellent and service perfect.  Half of us ordered Mexican food, the others dined on steaks cooked to perfection and succulent salmon. 

We discovered a new French restaurant on Burro Alley called the Cafe Paris owned by a husband-wife team who prepare fabulous food!  Rahera was born in Tahiti; Paul is from France.  For lunch, we had all kinds of soups, sandwiches, crepes, and omelettes, followed by chocolate truffle desserts.  The dinner menu looked superb and they also serve breakfast. 

We didn't have a chance to dine at El Nido (the nest) or the Steaksmith this time, but both are excellent dinner destinations. 
 

Shopping
   
Santa Fe has enough stores, galleries, and boutiques to keep someone busy browsing and buying for days.  Ortega's On the Plaza is always a great place to find South Western style jewelry.  Unusual ladies wear can be found at Origins, Spirit of the Earth, and Purple Sage.  The Santa Fe Weaving Gallery has some of the most gorgeous natural fiber coats and jackets I've ever seen - very fashionable "wearable art" woven in fine silks, wool, and cottons.  Other downtown shops offer everything from tourist trinkets to fine art. 

Our 98 pound Akita puppy chewed up my favourite winter boots two weeks before our trip, so I had to wear my 30# snow boots instead. Needless to say, I spent the first day searching for some new boots at every shoe store in town.  Walking On Water (on Water Street) had a nice selection but couldn't fit my size 11 feet.  The Overland Sheepskin Company had some great outdoor boots and Street Feet just next door on Galisteo did too.  Finally, I found the perfect boots at the Yarrow Collection on San Francisco Street - each pair is handcrafted by a Santa Fe artisan in colorful sheepskin and several low and high top designs are available.  The shop also has fanciful sheepskin coats and vests. 
 

Handcrafted boots and a vest at Yarrow
 
Canyon Road, known as "the art and soul" of Santa Fe is a mile long historical street lined with very upscale boutiques, galleries, art studios, and lots of little restaurants.  It is about 5 long blocks southeast of the Plaza and starts near the junction of Alameda and Paseo De Peralta.  Seeing it all can easily take an afternoon. 

Fenn Gallery at 1075 Paseo de Peralta is one of the finest art galleries in the Southwest.  It features 19th and 20th century American paintings and sculpture, works by early Taos and Santa Fe painters, as well as artists of the American West and masters of American Modernism and Impressionism.  Don't miss visiting this gallery to see all it has to offer or view some of the outstanding selections at its website

We saved the best for last (to give ourselves plenty of time to browse) at The Hock Shop on Read Street just a block from Tomasita's.  If you like trinkets, collectibles, Native American art and jewelry (the real thing, not the fake expensive, nouveau Indian stuff with Chinese turquoise made in the Far East), then don't miss stopping by Cliff and Debra Wright's store.  We found the Hock Shop over 20 years ago, and there's a story about how we first discovered it. 

My mother was a tiny little thing, only 99 pounds and 5' tall.  She was never wild about Indian jewelry until she and my step daddy lived in Chama for a year back in the early 1970s.  On one of their Very fine old Indian pawn - squash blossom necklacetrips to Santa Fe, she saw a small (just her size) squash blossom necklace in a window and fell in love with it.  It was old Indian pawn in the days when lots of Native Americans really DID pawn some of their prized possessions, but usually paid the loans off and retrieved the goods.   Eventually, however, mom was able to purchase the piece (she was one who never gave up!). 

As you can see, the necklace is quite exquisite and unique in that each "flower" has a row of turquoise surrounding the blossom bottom.  It is a fine example of old Indian pawn that is no longer easy to find. 

When Kenny and I made our first trip to Santa Fe , mom told us that we HAD to find this "pawn shop".  She couldn't remember the name, but vaguely located it on a downtown map.  Kenny and I searched for several hours and gave up.  On one of our treks down the street mom had pointed out, I saw a lovely Indian bracelet in a window.  While I was inside looking at it, I asked the store owner if he might know of the store mother had found.  As it ended up, we were in the right shop, but Cliff's dad had sold mother the necklace. 

We've been going there ever since and are always delighted to see the menagerie of "stuff" that the Hock Shop has available -- collectibles of every sort and kind, very fine old Indian jewelry, Navajo rugs, pottery, and you name it, they'll probably have it (or will find it for you).  Cliff's motto is "No antiques, but some damn fine junk!"  All I have to say is that some of his "junk" is priceless and rare as hell.  Take a look by taking a link to The Hock Shop web page that includes some examples of the authentic Indian pawn he and his wife Debra have had for sale over the years. 
 

Museums
  
Eleven excellent museums are in Santa Fe, the capital of New Mexico and the second oldest city in the United States.  Across from the Plaza, the Palace of the Governors features a 17,000 item collection detailing the history of New Mexico and Native American civilization. Other nearby museums are the new Georgia O'Keeff's Collections, the Museum of Fine Arts, and Institute of American Indian Art Museum. 
 
Jeff, Kenneth, Lynn (ScubaMom), and Katherine
Jeff, Lynn (ScubaMom), Kenneth, and Katherine
outside the Museum of International Folk Art.
 
While downtown, don't miss the lovely Loretto Chapel which features a spiral staircase built without nails or any visible means of support by a mysterious, wandering carpenter in 1878. 

A short drive down Old Santa Fe Trails to Camino Lejo takes you to The Museum of Indian Arts and Culture, one of our favorites.  The nearby Museum of International Folk Art is also worth a visit. 
 

Day Trips
  
Most visitors to Santa Fe have a car and take advantage of several wonderful day trips to nearby areas of interest.  Probably the most scenic and popular is taking the "high road" to Taos through gorgeous mountains.  We usually go during late morning and stop at Chimayo to visit the Santuario de Chimayo, a small chapel which some believe to have healing powers, and eat naive New Mexican food at Rancho de Chimayo.  Taos offers lots of shopping and a historical atmosphere.  If we are returning near sunset, then we take the "fast way" back along Route 68 to Interstate 84.  (Don't do the "high road" at night - you'll miss the views and the road is quite curvy). 

Other day trips can be taken to visit pueblos, quaint towns such as Chama, and Native Indian historical ruins. 
 

Skiing
  
Taos offers some of the best skiing in New Mexico and the ski area is about an hour and half drive from Santa Fe.  Santa Fe Ski Basin also has ski runs and is served by shuttle buses from most of the major hotels. 

Even though there was no snow in Santa Fe during our Christmas visit, both ski areas had enough for some fairly good skiing. 
 

Getting There
  
Santa Fe is located about an hours drive north of Albuquerque, and visitors should have an automobile to see all that the town and region has to offer. While Santa Fe has a tiny airport served by commuter flights, most people fly into the Albuquerque airport and rent a car there.  In our case, since half our group were driving, those flying into Albuquerque took the "Shuttlejack" bus system to reach Santa Fe.  Non-stop vans and large buses make the 70 minute trip 10-12 times a day and will drop riders off at most of the major hotels.  The cost is $20 per person one way. 

It is important to have a reservation with Shuttlejack before arrival and if your airline schedule runs late, be sure to call them to reserve a later bus.  Some of our group who had delayed airline schedules forgot to call and were left standing at the curb -- they ended up renting a car to reach Santa Fe.  For information, reservations, and current bus schedules, call (505) 982-4311 in Santa Fe or (505) 243-3244 in Albuquerque. 

If you must fly on American Airlines via the Dallas-Ft. Worth Airport to reach Albuquerque, then take this link to my "Suggestions for making connections through the DFW airport". 
 

 
 
Click on the Map for a larger image
 
 

You can visit Lynn at http://www.scubamom.com/

You can email Lynn McKamey at scubamom@scubamom.com

PO Box 2034
Sonoma, CA 95476
Phone/Fax- (707) 935-0595


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